Kauai East Shore - Kapa`a & Wailua

Island of Kauai

What to see - Wailua

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Lydgate State Park is home not only to a fantastic beach, but also to a couple of the most culturally significant heiaus on the island.

Hikina`akala Heiau (Rising of the Sun) is named for the fact that the sun was first visible from here each morning. Hawaiians would chant and pray with the rising of the sun. The heiau occupied an acre of land at the mouth of the Wailua River. It’s said to have been built in approximately 1300 AD. When traditional religion was abolished in the 1800s, the site was converted to secular use. All that you can see today are the boulders that formed the foundation for the walls thatwere up to six feet high. It is at the north end of Lydgate State Park. Just past Hikina`akala Heiau is Hauola Pu`uhonua, or City of Refuge. If you had broken kapu or the rule of law at the time, you would be punished, most likely by death. Lawbreakers could come to Hauola Pu`uhonua and receive immunity. The challenge, of course, was getting here and, once you entered, you would have to go through certain rituals with the priests. Then, you’d be free to go home.

Malae Heiau, which is in the process of restoration and is slated to become a cultural park, is on the south side of the Wailua River, across Kuhio Highway from the Aloha Beach Resort. Kalaeokamanu Heiau is on the north side of the river along Kuamo’o Road, just beyond the old Coco Palms Hotel. Nearby are the royal birthstones (pohaku ho’ ohanau), where women who were royal or of a high rank came to give birth. Nearby is Holoholoku Heiau, believed to be the oldest on the island.

Ancient petroglyphs can be found on the rocks at the river mouth to the left of the Kaua`i resort. Today, the meaning of these petroglyphs remains a mystery.

The historic Fern Grotto was once one of Kaua`i’s major cultural attractions. It was used by the ancient Hawaiians and is a fernfilled cavern with excellent natural acoustics. It’s also known as the place where Elvis Presley sang the Hawaiian wedding song in Blue Hawai`i. The most amazing feature of the grotto is the 80-foot opening to a cave where a waterfall used to run from the Wailua River. The water was diverted to maintain the sugar crops and the sword fern spores in the cracks of the cave. The ferns grow upside down in the grotto at an average of three to five feet long.

During the major heavy rains of 2006, Fern Grotto was closed to the public due to rocks and boulders falling from the ceiling. Fern Grotto has been in disrepair and decline since Hurricane Iwa in 1982. Various funding issues contributed to the decline; tourism soon dropped as well. A minor closure that was expected to last only three weeks turned out to be a major renovation taking roughly six months. With the restoration, local businesses hope that the grotto returns to its former glory.

Fern Grotto is accessible only by boat. You can take Smith’s Fern Grotto Wailua River Cruise, 808-821-6895. It makes the two-mile journey up the Wailua River to Fern Grotto. Along the way, you’ll be treated to stories about the area and even learn hula. The 1½-hour cruise costs $18 for adults, $9 for children aged two-12. You can also take a canoe ride with Kamokila Hawaiian Village, Kuamoo Road, Wailua, 808-823-0559, http://www.kamokila.com. $5 per person, $3 for ages five through 12, free for kids under five. Or rent a kayak and paddle up the Wailua River on your own.

Kamokila Hawaiian Village offers cultural tours of their four-acrereconstructed Hawaiian village. King Kaumuali`i, the last reigning king of Kaua`i, was a resident of the area. The village contains 14 thatched-roof homes, including a canoe house, a birthing house, a hula house, the chief’s assembly house and a doctor’s house. Storyboards explain the function of each house within the village. The property is also full of gardens featuring plants that had many uses within the village, such as awa and ti. You can try your hand at Hawaiian games such as spear throwing. Kamokila also offers canoe rides to Secret Falls and Fern Grotto. The cost of canoe rides, including village admission, is $30 per person, $20 for children. The canoe rides are not recommended for kids under five.

Smith’s Tropical Paradise, Wailua Marina State Park, Wailua, 808-821-6895. Open daily 8:30 am-4 pm. Admission: adults $6; children aged two-12 $3. The grounds are beautifully kept with over 20 fruit trees, including breadfruit, star fruit, jackfruit, macadamia nuts and soursop. There are replicas of Filipino and Polynesian huts, as well as a beautiful Japanese-style garden. Strolling along the grounds is a peaceful way to spend the afternoon. If you’re going to Smith’s Fam-ily Garden Luau, get there early so you have time to experience the gardens.

Coco Palms, Kuhio Highway, Wailua. Ancient Hawaiians once considered the 45-acre area to be a gathering place. In the 13th century, it was the home of Kaua`i’s royalty. Kaua`i’s oldest hotel opened here in 1953 with 24 rooms and four employees. Within the resort area lies a 2,000-tree coconut grove, where Elvis Presley filmed the end of Blue Hawai`i in 1961. Since then, the resort grew in size and stature as many celebrities of the time stayed at Coco Palms to enjoy the sunshine.

Unfortunately, Coco Palms was badly damaged during Hurricane Iniki in 1992 and has been closed since then. Despite this, weddings are performed and you can see the area with Hawai`i Movies Tours, 800-628-8432, 808-822-1192. You can walk by and still sense the old ghosts of that period. Currently, plans are underway to rebuild Coco Palms to its former splendor. The $200 million project is slated to reopen in August of 2008 with 200 condominium units and 104 hotel rooms. While it’s not planned to be an exact replica of the old Coco Palms, it will retain the 1950s feel. Even Cottage 56, which was Elvis’ bungalow in Blue Hawai`i, will be restored and used as a memorial, with a gift shop nearby. For more information on this project, check out www.cocopalms.com.

Saiva Siddhanta Church, 107 Kaholalele Road, Wailua, 808-822-3012. Open to the public daily from 9 am to noon. There also is a weekly guided tour of the grounds that includes the San Marga Iraivan Temple. The weekly tour time varies, call ahead. In 1970, Satguru Sivaya Subramuniyaswami, founder of the church and monastery, selected this 458-acre site in Wailua as a place of worship. He recognized that Hawaiians also felt the spiritual power of the area. The San Marga Iraivan Temple is in the process of being built on the site and will not be completed until 2010. It’s designed to last 1,000 years or more. The granite for the temple is being hand-quarried by some 70 stonemasons in India, then shipped to Kaua`i for final shaping and fitting on the site. The center of the temple will hold a 700-pound crystal, known as the Sivalingam, now displayed at the monastery’s smaller temple on the grounds. If you do decide to visit, bring an umbrella, since it can be rainy in the area. Also wear “modest dress.” Shorts, short dresses or skirts, T-shirts and tank tops are off-limits. To get there, take Kuamoo Road from Kuhio Highway for four miles. Just past the four-mile marker, turn left on Kaholalele Road. The Information Center is at the end of the road. Upon entering the pavilion, a guide will greet you and escort you through the monastery.

Keahua Forestry Arboretum, Kuamoo Road, Wailua, is a 30-acre property that offers streams, pools, forests and meadows. It’s a great place to come for a picnic as there are plenty of tables available throughout the property, each with a unique view. Some have exceptional views of Mount Wai`ale`ale. You’ll also see tropical plants, such as mango, eucalyptus and monkeypod trees. There are several streams and freshwater pools that feed into the Wailua River nearby, providing a cool, relaxing area to swim and frolic.

There are a number of hiking trails in the area. One is an easy trail within the confines of the arboretum; another is a more challenging four-mile trail just outside of the property. There’s also the Powerline Trail just past the arboretum. The Kulilau Ridge Trail starts in this area as well.

To get here, take Kuamoo Road from Wailua for eight miles. You’ll pass through Wailua Homestead, and University of Hawai`i Agricultural Station. The road gets bumpy about three quarters of the way up. You’ll come to a river crossing where you can park.

Bell Stone. This piece of Hawaiian culture was used to announce royal births. If you struck the stone just right, sounds would resonate throughout Wailua Valley. To get there, drive on Kuhio Highway and turn on Kuamoo Road. Just past mile marker one is a dirt road heading back to the ocean. The bell stone is a quarter-mile down at the end of the dirt path.

Opaeka`a Falls. Named after the shrimp that were once abundant in the stream, Opaeka`a (rolling shrimp) Falls has parking and is a popular viewpoint that was developed for tourists. On one side, you’ll see the 150-foot falls. The other side offers a magnificent view of the Wailua River Valley. To get there, take Kuamoo Road and drive approximately two miles until you reach the viewing area. You do not have to hike to see the falls.

On the way to Opaeka`a Falls, you can stop to view the remains of Poliahu Heiau. It is believed to have been built by Menehune in 1600s. The walls were made of stacked rock some five feet high. Poliahu Heiau was named for the snow goddess of the Island of Hawai`i, who lived on Mauna Kea. The largest heiau on Kaua`i, this site contains several terraces, idol sites, and a “god stone” five feet high.

Sleeping Giant. If you look from the right angle, Nounou Mountain looks very much like a sleeping giant. There are numerous stories about the Sleeping Giant. The first story says that there was a giant who lived on
Kaua`i and was friendly with the Hawaiians. The Hawaiians would plant taro in his footsteps. One day, a village chief ordered a new heiau to be built. The villagers were too busy farming, but the giant said he would do it. Within two weeks, the giant completed the heiau. The Hawaiians threw a
huge luau in appreciation for the giant’s efforts. The giant ate so much, he lay down to sleep and has yet to awake.

Another story says that the people of Wailua were tired of feeding the giant, so one day they hid rocks in fish and poi. The giant ate the rocks, poi and fish, then he lay down to sleep and has yet to wake up.

Other folklore says that people used to ward off invaders by lighting fires behind the mountain, creating an impression that something big was lurking about the island.

To see Sleeping Giant, take Kuhio Highway north from Wailua to Kapa`a. There’s a Chevron station on the right and a marker for the Sleeping Giant viewing area.

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